Whether it’s made from a box mix or from scratch, there are few sweet creations that have the flexibility of custard. It is used to make bread puddings, mousses, frozen treats and is a great filling between cake layers. If you are like me and you loooooove custard, pudding, and crème pâtissière on a deep soulful level, then trust me you want to learn how to make it from scratch.

The good news is that even though good chocolate and real vanilla are expensive, thankfully the other ingredients for custard are the inexpensive kitchen staples cornstarch or flour, eggs, sugar, butter, cream (optional), and milk.

Chocolate custard, creme pâtissière, or “crem-pat” is one of my favorite expressions of the cocoa bean because it showcases two of the bean’s most ubiquitous derivatives; cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate. Most people are comfortable shopping for chocolate, it’s all about the percentages. Cocoa powder is another story. It comes in two main forms: “NATURAL” or ‘DUTCH PROCESS” (Hershey’s calls their yummy dutch process chocolate “SPECIAL DARK” for some reason). The difference is about alkalinity: Dutch process is less acidic by design. Natural cocoa is less processed, but has similar, if not lighter, brighter flavor. The details are science-y and easy to find somewhere else. Chocolate science is fascinating and I recommend seeking it out.

In this recipe, I use dutch process cocoa powder for darker color and richer flavor, and I use Droste because it never fails to make you stop and say, “wow” and “damn” and “please sir, may I have some more?” For the bittersweet chocolate, I have used different brands with similar outcomes. I recommend getting your favorite chocolate in the 46%-70%+ range and use it for this. Best to always weigh your chocolate, if possible. Volume measurements can be off for chocolate chips.Chocolate crem-pat is different from chocolate pudding in that it includes eggs in the mix of thickeners, whereas pudding uses only starch.

When it comes time to get down to the custard making business things can move fast, so get all your ingredients ready, portioned, and waiting to be used. Getting it all ready to use and in position nearby to where it will be needed is called “mis en place”, a French term that basically means “ready to go”. Think ahead and place premeasured ingredients around where they will be most helpful once you get started. Tempering the mixture with the hot milk is the point of no return and you must stay with it now, through to the end.

There are several ways to thicken a custard: in a double boiler over a pot of simmering water, in a saucepan on the stovetop, or in a heatproof bowl in the microwave.

The Double Boiler Method:

The double boiler is the classic approach to gently heating a custard mix to thicken it slowly. Find a bowl and saucepan combo that lets the bowl sit deeply and securely in the pan without coming close to the bottom of it. An inch of water should be able to gently simmer without ever touching the bottom of the inserted bowl. When the mixture thickens and coats the back of the spatula, move the custard to the strainer and complete the recipe.

The Microwave Method:

The strength of your microwave will make a difference in the timing with this method. The higher your wattage, the faster and hotter it will heat. For this method, start by heating the milk in the microwave to scalding and whisk it, in ever growing dollops, into the egg, sugar and cornstarch mixture, whisking constantly to temper the mixture. When the milk is halfway in, dump in the rest, stir well and return to the microwave safe bowl and place back in the microwave. If you are making a full batch, start with 90 seconds, then take it out and stir well, but not aggressively. Microwave 60 seconds and stir again. Microwave 30 seconds and stir again. Then repeat 15 second bursts and stirring until thickened. Move the custard to the strainer and complete the recipe.These times are for a tiny 700 watt little microwave, so watch your timing if you use this method. When you get the timing right it is surprisingly easy and fast.

The Saucepan Method:

Most pastry chefs makes so much crem-pat that they just make it on the stovetop in a saucepan over direct heat like a real badass. They make so much they don’t even say the whole word. For this technique, heat the milk to scalding in the saucepan. While the milk is heating, combine the other ingredients in a bowl and gently whisk to combine. As the milk begins to bubble around the edges of the pot, remove it from the heat and whisk it, in ever growing dollops, into the egg, sugar and cornstarch mixture, whisking constantly to temper the mixture. When the milk is halfway in, dump in the rest, stir well, return to the saucepan and set the burner to medium. Stir constantly until there is a gentle cover of bubbles forming across the mixture, 5-7 minutes and the sauce coats the bak of the spatula. Move the custard to the strainer and complete the recipe. This is the method in the recipe that follows, but you can use any method you feel comfy with.

The Recipe

Mis en Place:

6 oz, 171g bittersweet or semisweet chocolate

3 tbsp (43g) butter, chilled, cut into medium cubes

1 Tbsp (14g) vanilla or 1 vanilla bean, scraped

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2 cups, 250g half-n-half or whole milk, heated to scalding

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2 large egg yolks

1/2 cup, 125g granulated sugar

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1/4 cup, 45g cornstarch

3 tbsp, 21g cocoa powder

1/2 tsp salt

Procedure:

Add the chilled butter and chocolate to a medium bowl big enough to hold the final mixture with room to stir it. Set a strainer on top of the bowl and set aside.

Heat the 2 cups of half-n-half to scalding. Use a glass measuring cup in the microwave or a small pot on the stovetop.

Whisk the egg yolks into the separated 1/2 cup of milk and set aside.

In a medium sauce pot, whisk together the sugar and egg yolk mixture. In a separate bowl, combine the cornstarch, cocoa powder, and salt.  When the sugar/yolks reaches the ribbon stage, mix in the cocoa powder/cornstarch.

Slowly add the hot half-n-half, whisking in small dollops at first (like a roux) to make sure there are no lumps. When mixture is halfway tempered, pour in the rest and return the mixture to the saucepan. 

Heat over medium heat until thickened, about 5-7 minutes. STIR GENTLY BUT CONSTANTLY, SCRAPING THE BOTTOM WELL TO AVOID SCORCHING.

The custard is done when thickening evens out, the mixture is smooth, and there are bubbles across the surface.

Scrape into the strainer over the chocolate and butter and set aside for 3-5 minutes. Gently fold together until uniform. 

Place a layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the creme-pat, then set aside to cool completely.

Refrigerate until well chilled and it is ready to use.  This recipe will make a firm custard, great for fillings, a base for chocolate mousse, and alone with whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles.